I’d like to discuss something of driving
importance…the Elizabethan Ruff. I know that beheading was a popular norm in
the time, Henry the VIII chopped off at least 3 of his 6 wives’ heads. He was
at a 50% rate when he died, and may have upped that percentage had he lived
longer. Was this need to cut peoples’ heads off caused by the Elizabethan Ruff?
The Ruff had the effect of making a person’s head look as though it had all
ready been detached from the body and presented on a platter. I don’t think
there is any place in the world that still uses the Ruff in fashion, except the
circus and adorning dogs who have and obsessive compulsion with scratching
themselves bloody…well, that’s not really a Ruff is it, more a funnel.
Another interesting Elizabethan devise was
the Farthingale, or hooped skirt. The Spanish version know as the fertugado was
brought to England
by Catherine of Aragon (she lost her head). They were a rather modest, ‘A’ type
structure that any engineer would envy. Then the French got hold of it and the
next thing the Farthingale had more hoops than a Native American dancer. Even
so the Farthingale for Queen Elizabeth wasn’t enough; she added the prefix
“great” onto it. Dipping to the front, ridding up behind, the gown looked like
a ship diving down into a trough in some tempestuous storm. It’s no wonder why
palaces needed to be so big. Imagine a dance floor populated by an armada of
Great Farthingales swirling about like out of control bumper cars. Now, I
understand that Queen Elizabeth’s favourite dance was La Volta, where there was
some lifting and jumping about involved. I know a bit about dance and find it
hard to imagine how someone could possibly lift a woman dressed in a Great
Farthingale and keep all their teeth.
The other interesting thing I’ve noticed
about the Elizabethan dress was that it came in parts. There was a Roll, a
Stomacher, a Petticoat, a Kirtle, a Forepart, a Partlet, a Gown, Separate
Sleeves and the notorious Ruff. It’s no wonder you needed a cast of thousands
to assemble a lady for society. Elizabeth had
four ladies of the bed chamber to dress her and then a bevy of Elizabeth clones to keep her from running
people over because a Great Farthingale did limit one’s visibility. King James,
Elizabeth ’s
replacement, solved this problem by entirely dispensing with changing his
clothes altogether. As the old ones dissolved he just clothed himself in new
clothes. Shakespeare knew King Jame’s taste, that’s why he wrote ‘The Scottish
Play.’
Clothing must have inhibited Elizabethan
love making…or maybe that’s why the clothing came apart in pieces. Let me think
about that.